NORTH WEST
Tasmania's fourth-largest city, with a population of about 17,000, Burnie was built on the back of a fascinating industrial past that in recent times has become an impetus for creativity as the city re-invents itself, co-existing with nature and wildlife.
At one end of the meandering beach boardwalk is a deepwater port and at the other, a penguin rookery. Beyond the former paper manufacturing mill is the platypus haven at Fern Glade, while the mill itself is now home to Creative Paper Mills, using age-old techniques to craft hand-made, high quality art paper and paper products. The city's sprawling, world-class Emu Valley rhododendron garden is a veritable Noah's Ark for the magnificent plants, conserving species that are uncommon or under threat.
From Burnie with its industrial heritage and busy port, the Bass Highway follows the coast westward, almost always within sight of Bass Strait. Massive bluffs nudge out into the sea: Table Cape, just beyond Wynyard, flat-topped and fertile, with flowering tulips carpeting its fields in spring; Rocky Cape, with its native orchids, bushwalks and sea cliffs; and Circular Head, where the historic village of Stanley snuggles up against the steep-sided Nut. At Boat Harbour and Sisters Beach, green fields sweep down to the water.
Stanley was established in the early days of the colony as the base for the Van Diemen's Land Company's grazing operations in the area. Its fishing and farming history is echoed in the village's sturdy stone cottages, and in the graceful facade of Highfield, built in 1832 for the company's Governor and agents.
Smithton is the centre for the region's productive agricultural and forestry operations. From here, you travel through the rich dairylands of Edith Creek and deep into the tall forests of the north-west, before returning to the coast.
Just 30 minutes' drive from Smithton is the Dismal Swamp centre. Here you can walk among rare blackwood trees in an ancient geological sink hole. The highway leads westward to the coastal village of Marrawah. On the far north-west tip is the historic property of Woolnorth. On the property is the Cape Grim Meteorological Station where sea air, tested as the world's cleanest air, sweeps in on the winds called the Roaring Forties.
Southwards from Marrawah - is the entrance of Arthur River, where a river cruise takes you to see sea eagles. At fishing settlements of Couta Rocks and Temma the sea can rage - fishermen winch their boats out of the water on slips rather than risk them on moorings.
The Western Explorer route through the Arthur-Pieman Conservation Area penetrates the Tarkine forest wilderness and crosses the lower reaches of the Pieman by vehicular barge on its way to the west coast.
